Get Tipsy on: Madi

Madi, also known around the rest of the world as Palm Wine, is a delicious and often times healthy alcoholic beverage made from the sap of palm trees. In Madi's case, the coconut tree. 

We discovered this wonderful drink through a fantastic experience you can read about here.

After cutting the palm stem, a container is placed below the tap and the sweet palm nectar is collected. Although non alcoholic at first, it only takes a few hours for the sap to naturally ferment and reach an alcohol content of about 4%. If left longer, the brew gets stronger and becomes a "wine" and the taste will be more acidic.

We absolutely LOVED this drink but please be careful when seeking it out. Make sure you find a reliable source because as with any moonshine, it may be mixed or "diluted" with another substance that could be dangerous or even fatal. 

After sampling it at a roadside stand we arranged for our host to take us to a local producer and had the freshest Madi possible. For 100 rupees (about $1.50) we got a liter and kept us tipsy all day.

Cheers!

Money Problems

It's not every day that a country decides to scrap two of it's most popular currencies, the 500 and 1000 rupee, let alone scrap them and tell everyone the night before.

Yet this is what happened to us while we were in Bombay. In order to cut down on blackmarket money and counterfeit bills, India's Prime Minister Narendra Modi decided to pull this bold move.

The government announced they would put a limit on how much cash you could turn in without imposing major penalties and fines up to 50% of your money. Luckily for us we had limited money to exchange. It still took us about an hour and half of chaos at the bank turn the old currency in.

Once we exchanged what we had, our problems weren't over. All ATM machines were down for several days and when random ones started reopening they would have lines around the block and run out of cash within hours. On top of that, few businesses accept credit cards so needless to say we had to be careful with our money.

Almost everyone we've talked to here is supporting this crazy strategy despite the major inconveniences many are facing. India is largely a cash based economy so there are millions who will be affected by this including the massive wedding industry. Many families pay for the weddings in cash and spend years saving for it. The restaurants in Goa are empty because so many people canceled their trips to avoid the hassles so we're sure the tourism industry is taking a huge hit. Also, remote poor people who live too far from a bank can have piles of cash saved up that may now be worthless.

Anyway, it was interesting to witness a country thrown into financial chaos for more than a month. Considering the stress it's causing so many people we sure hope the long term benefit is worth it and does what their hoping. Only time will tell... 

Part 2: Planning your trip on the Spiti Valley Loop

 Want to plan a trip on the amazing Spiti Valley Loop? Every foreigner traveling from Kaza to Kinnauar is required to obtain the ILP (Inner Line Permit) so make sure you do your homework. Here you'll find answers on how to obtain the permit as well as transportation options for this amazing journey. If you missed Part 1 of this story you can find it here.

After being denied the ILP (Inner Line Permit) in Shimla, we continued our journey in the north of India to Manali, where we were told we would 100% get the permit.

Again, we ended up in a small town with one purpose only, to obtain the ILP.  All the foreigners visiting Himachal Pradesh between the Spiti Valley and Kinnaur Districts are required to get the ILP.  

Inner Line Permit

As soon as we got to Manali, we visited the SDM office to get the ILP,  which is located in the city center, on Mall road. It turned out that in Manali, the permits are only issued for groups of 4 or more people, so we were back to square one. Winter was approaching fast and we only had 2 days before the pass was going to close (The Kunzum Pass is closed from October 16th for 7 months).

But this is India and we knew that there would be another way around this small bump. At the SDM office we were informed to go to Kaza, where the officers were apparently not as strict on the rule of 4 people traveling together.

We decided to try our luck with the ILP in Kaza. We only had to find transportation from Manali to Kaza.

Transportation

There are few ways to travel on this route.

Option 1: The most obvious choice is to drive yourself either by renting a car or motorcycle. But since neither of us had done this before and after hearing how treacherous the roads were, we didn't feel comfortable with this option. Having said that, our next time will be on motorcycles! Also, we wanted to be able to take in the views rather than worry about driving off a cliff... 

Option 2: There is one bus from Manali to Kaza and it leaves at 6am. There are no reserved seats but this is the cheapest option. We heard the ride through the pass can be a bit dangerous and rough so weren't so keen on taking the bus. 

Option 3: A "Volvo bus" would have been more comfortable but apparently wasn't available because it was the end of the season.

Option 4: Private taxis ("yellow cab") wanted to charge us 9,000 rupees to drive from Manali to Kaza. This was way too expensive and out of the question.

Option 5: Shared Taxi in a 4x4 costs only 2,000 rupees each but the driver who looked like Indian Lenny Kravitz, didn't have a permit to drive foreigners through Rohtang Pass. Lenny almost convinced us to sneak through the border but we decided not to.

Option 6: After walking for hours from one tourist office to another, we stepped into Chandertal Trek and Tours. After some negotiating, we decided to rent a private driver with a 4x4 to drive us for 10 days in the Himachal Pradesh. That way we could stop anywhere we wanted, film and photograph easier, and it also sounded like the most comfortable ride.

We negotiated the price for the driver, car and gas for 3,600 rupees a day. We later learned that this is way too much and it should have been about half but oh well... Foreigners always pay more because we have no clue what things should cost in India. We'll know better next time.

Chandertal Tours helped us to plan the 10 day trip. We planned to drive from Manali to visit the valleys of: Spiti, Pin and Kinnauar, making a big loop and ending in Shimla.

We were going to meet our driver Bitu next day at 5:30am. Read Part 3 HERE!

Have a tip or story to share about getting your Inner Line Permit? Please share in the comments below!

BFFs

For our last few nights in Shimla, the capital of Himachal Pradesh, we moved to a nice little hotel in the Laakar Bazaar district in order to be more central. 

The hotel was decent enough and everyone who worked there was quite nice. But there was one employee who went above and beyond the call of duty. 

He was kind of like a bellhop, but also worked in the restaurant and just kind of helped out with whatever needed to be done. As we were checking into our room he began to converse with us. "What country are you from?" "What are your names?" etc. 

He was quite nice and so we indulged in some light conversation with him. At the end he wanted a selfie with us, which isn't unusual. We've taken millions at this point. But then he asked if he could meet us in the evening because he wanted to talk with us more in English.

We said okay, he left and we went on with our day. Sadly by the time we got home from touristing it was quite late and we honestly had forgotten to look for him (he was working anyway) and we went straight to our room.

The next day we saw him and there was a sad look on his face. Turns out he waited for us until midnight! We felt terrible.

We weren't actually able to meet with him until the last day. It was actually just me (Nate), who met with him. I agreed to talk with him in the restaurant and I brought my computer armed to show him some pictures of our trip and our blog etc.

As soon as I sat down the first thing he asked me was, "can you get me a visa for the UK?" I looked at him shocked and said I was from America. He then asked if I could get him one for the U.S. Sadly, I told him I couldn't for reasons obvious to anyone from there. I explained that the process was quite complicated and expensive and that I had no connections or authority.

After that we chatted a bit more and he insisted on giving me a gift which was quite sweet. I tried to refuse but he wouldn't have it. He also invited us to his village to stay with him and his family and said it would be "his greatest honor". At the very end he told me "we will be best friends and I will write you on Facebook every day". Well he's kept his promise. 

I've received messages almost every day ranging from, "how are you?" to "where are you?" to "I love you", "I miss you" and "please come back to Shimla!". Marta and I were a bit worried and quite shocked that we might have an actual stalker.

But since talking with other Indian friends we think it's a combo of things. One is a "lost in translation", two is a cultural difference, and three, he's never been treated this way by a foreigner before. The hotel we stayed at was really a locals place where Indian tourists stay. I don't think many westerns have stayed there. And the fact that two exotic foreigners walked in, talked with him gave him probably far more respect than Indian tourists do, he couldn't help but wear his heart on his sleeve.

With that perspective in mind, we're still in touch and he think he is a great guy. His messages still "weird" me out a bit but I try to remember they are coming from a good place. And although we don't always get it, we have to say the people of India are some of the sweetest, most sincere people we have ever met. 

... and that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

Too Close For Comfort

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It's 3am and the alarm goes off. 

Time to get up and out the door in 15. Uber is on the way.

We load into the car and I (Nate) take a look at the driver. Something doesn't seem right. Is he sleepy? Is he drunk? I whisper to Marta to keep her eye on his driving. No napping for us on the way to the train station because who knows what this driver could do while we're out. 

The first half of the journey, things are fine. He's driving a bit slow which is weird for India but he isn't swerving or anything. We make our way onto the major freeway headed from Gurgaon to Delhi for a 5am train departure.

All of a sudden in the middle of the freeway, the driver starts slowing down. Actually more like coasting to a stop. He says nothing to us. Marta and I look at each other, then we look at him and ask, "what's going on?". He doesn't look at us and he doesn't say anything. 

My mind starts scrambling. I didn't hear an engine noise, I didn't hear any stutter, we just stopped. Is he trying to kidnap us? Is a van going to pull up in the dark and masked men whisk us away? Finally we start screaming at him "What's going on?!" That wakes him up and he finally gestures that the car is broken. 

At that moment a giant semi-truck flies by in the other lane. Great. We are in the middle of the freeway, in the fast lane, in the dark, in a stalled car. I instantly think one of these giant trucks could plow into us. Not more than seconds later, BAM!!!! My life flashes before my eyes (not literally...that would have been cool though) and we look back. A motorcyclist has just hit us. The motorcyclist gets up, and is miraculously okay. I don't think this was his first time. This is India after all where people drive INSANE! That's when I tell Marta we have to get out of the car and onto the side of the freeway. We grab our bags, exit the uber and move to the shoulder. 

At this point 2-3 Auto Rickshaws have pulled up. They offer us rides which at first we refuse but soon we realize time is running out to catch our train, and we don't have time to wait for another uber. So we negotiate the price, jump in the Rickshaw and he speeds us to the station just in time to catch our train.

The whole experience was so surreal and fast that it took us a few hours on the train to finally calm down and process. We were lucky this time but if that motorcyclist had been a large truck, we would probably be dead. 

That's my story and I'm sticking to it....

Part 1: A taste of the Himalayas

After weeks of  dealing with one of the most populated cities in the word we were ready to spend some time in nature.We traded the hot and humid weather of New Delhi for the cooler temperatures of the north. Our journey begins in Shimla, the beautiful mountainous town, famous for it's spectaculars views, friendly and hard working people and delicious organic apples. The Tipsy Gypsies are on a journey to explore the spectacular Himachal Pradesh, and more....

PART 1

Delhi to Shimla

On an early morning, we boarded a train from Delhi to Shimla. This was our first long distance train ride, and we cautiously decided to sit in an AC cart with reserved seats. We almost missed the train because we got into a car accident with a crazy uber driver, which you can ready about it here

Still shaken up after the uber drive we ran into the station a few minutes before 5:15am and just in time to catch our train. The ride was very pleasant and comfortable and perfect for catching up on sleep. 

After a few hours we arrived in a town called Kalka and boarded the Himalayan Queen "Toy Train" to Shimla. This train was very tiny, hence the name, and operated on a different, smaller track. Before we boarded the train, we were able to buy lunch and eat before we starting our long journey to Shimla.

The journey on the toy train is spectacular. You get to soak in the views for about 6 hours so get comfortable and enjoy the ride.

The train makes short stops along the way so if you get hungry there are plenty of opportunities to eat food: delicious hot samosas, snacks, and sweet chai. Food vendors will also come onto the train with chai and fresh snacks like chana chaat (garbanzo beans with onion, tomatoes, chilis and fresh lime juice).

The boonies of Shimla

Shimla is a popular destination, therefore not the cheapest for budget travelers like us. We decided to stay in a hotel called "Snowflake Cottage", located 9 kilometers outside the town, which turned out to be a good decision. The following day in a desperate search for beer, we explored a small town nearby, Mashobra, on foot. It was a walk worth the adventure despite the rain that got us soaking wet. Here are some things we got see while walking along the road.

The advantage of staying outside the city was that the hotel was cheaper, but the negative was that getting to the city was not so cheap. We knew that the taxi would be around 500 rupees one way, which was almost half of what we spent on the hotel. We had to come up with another plan for transportation.

We asked the front desk for help. They reluctantly said that buses do exist, but they don't recommend it. Perhaps they wanted us to use the paid taxi service (commission for the hotel) or they were just confused why two white kids would want to ride the locals bus. Of course, we decided to try the bus.

The local buses can get crowded in seconds, with people transporting all sorts of things: packages, propane bottles (totally illegal and dangerous), farm animals, but you are almost guaranteed to fit no matter how many people are inside. Seldom do tourists use public transportation. If you are a foreigner traveling on a local bus you will be the talk of all the conversations for probably weeks. We learned the the local buses are a lot fun, fast (sometimes too fast), and very cheap. Locals are very helpful so don't be afraid to ride the crazy bus.

The Tipsy Gypsies Tip: The bus will stop pretty much anywhere you want. When you are stacked in the back of the bus and you want to make the bus to stop, just whistle.

Touristing in Shimla

First things first, coffee is a must. We went to the old school coffeeshop "Indian Coffee House", where waiters wear cool outfits and the coffee is decent and you can grab some snacks before you explore the rest of the city.

Also they have a restroom and toilette paper!! It's a luxury in India.

Jakhoo, Monkey Temple

Hindus worship animals, cows being the holiest of them all. For a semi-vegan, this sounds like a great religion. We decided to visit the Jakkhoo temple, which is dedicated to the monkey god Hanuman.

Jakhoo temple is located on top of a hill. Either we are out of shape or this is a really steep climb. Before you start the walk make sure you've had some coffee and bring plenty of water with you. Once you get to the top, the atmosphere is amazing. Architecturally, the design of the temple itself is ok, but there are mischievous monkeys running around the whole place, which was the most fun part about this place. 

Beware of the monkeys

Seeing monkeys in the wild was something very new to us, so naturally we got very excited. However, the monkeys are clever with the dumb tourists, so here is the thing. They are very cute and extremely smart. We "played" around with them, taking pictures and watching them, and we got very comfortable maybe too comfortable... it's hard to resist them, just take a look.

Just when we started to leave one of the monkeys tried to steal the scarf of my (Marta's) backpack. The monkey was screaming and I was screaming. Fortunately for me, my scarf was tide to my backpack so the monkey ran away empty handed.

The Tipsy Gypsies Tips: Lesson #1 put all your loose shit away (sunglasses, scarfs, phones, cameras!!) because they will try to snatch it from you. These guys are smart and once they steal your stuff they will try to bribe you to bring them food and trade for your belongings. Yes, this sounds crazy but it is true. There is a chance that if you have some tasty snacks they will return your stuff to you, but unfortunately it might be in poor condition.

Advanced Studies aka Rashtrapati

This is a beautiful classical structure built by the British in the 1800's. Don't bother with the tour of the interior because it sucks. Since there is still an interior designer in me, I love learning about the interior architecture and we decided to tour the interior. This tour was really lame. The guide knew English, but during the tour spoke Hindi language only. We spent about 5 min in each room. The guide told us to read the pamphlets in the rooms (as long as the Lord of the Rings) and ask him questions if we have any. Mhhh ok, thanks. So we recommend that you do your own research on the history of the place, and spend as much time as you can around the gardens surrounding the building. 

 

Food Porn

After the hike we sure got hungry. We decided to hit as many food stalls as possible

Snack #1 Veggie Samosa burger from SITA Ram and Son

Snack #2 Chana Tikka

Snack #3 Chai

Snack #2 Gravy and Ghawna (pancake)  from SITA Ram and Son

Snack #2 Chinese noodles Indian Style

After Shimla, we originally planned to travel to the Ladakh region, but winter was approaching rapidly and we weren't prepared for the snow and freezing weather. We decided to journey through the Spiti Valley loop instead, but there was one catch. Foreigners need a permit to visit this region. The bureau of tourism in Shimla said they couldn't help us with the permit, and we needed to go to Manali. So guess where we are going next? ...Read part 2, Manali and Inner Line Permit HERE!

A trip to the Sahara desert

A camel trip is probably one of the main reasons why you should visit Morocco. Camel trekking and an overnight stay, combined with stargazing in the Sahara desert will leave you with one of the most memorable experiences of your life and perhaps with some painful blisters on your butt too. Here is what you need to know before you go.

Where are the camels?

Most of the camel trips start in Merzouga. Depending on your itinerary, most likely you will be traveling to Merzouga from Marrachesch. There are plenty of travel agencies that can arrange the camel trip for you from Marrakech, but if you want to save money, we recommend that you take a CTM bus from the city. The bus ride is about 8h-10h,  but is very comfortable. If you have the time you can also stop in Todra Gorge for a night or two and do some trekking there and continue on to Merzouga from there.

First of all these animals are not camels. They actually are call a dromedary. The difference is that the dromedary have one hump, unlike camels, which have two lovely humps.  

Trekking

The most surprising thing about out camel ride was that all the camels are tide together by a rope and they walk in line following a guide. If you have never been on a horse and you are afraid, this is probably great news for you. For those who expect a more wild ride you might be a bit disappointed in the ride itself. The ride was fairly comfortable, but we were happy to get down after 2-3 h. 

What NOT to wear on a dromedary (camel) trip?

There is just one very important piece of clothing that you should NEVER  wear on a dromedary/camel trip. It's a thong. OMG, don't ever make the same mistake, unless you want to experience blisters in places that you never thought you could get.

Have you heard of the phenomenon called sahara butt? probably not. It's when you wear clothes that rub in the crevices of your body e.g your butt. Yeah, just don't wear any clothes that will crunch up in you butt. We are going to leave this here but trust us!!

How to avoid the sahara butt?

1. Wear comfortable underwear and don't wear any clothes that will crunch up (in you butt).

2. Wear long pants, your legs won't chafe !! 

3. Loose clothes are great! You won't sweat and it will protect you from the sun plus you will be comfortable. 

 

Also Important:  Do not forget your sunglasses, head scarf, sunblock and SPF lipstick!

Night at the Desert

After a few hours of trekking you will arrive to your camp. You will be fed, with most likely Tagine, and if you are lucky enough you might be entertained with traditional berber music. Berber people have an amazing culture and spirit. 

Tipsy Gypsies Tip:  We recommend that you bring some liquor to the desert. Berber people like alcohol, and as long as you share your goods with them, they will too.

Berber people were traditionally nomads. Don't assume that the nomadic lifestyle and simple life make these people ignorant . Both of our guides were smart students who spoke fluently in at least 4 languages. They were also are humble and very talented musicians They told us they didn't like big cities and decided to live a simple life and follow their passion, music.

Tipsy Gypsies Tip:  We talked with our guides and asked them for some funny stories from the desert. They told us that sometimes tourists get too drunk and behave rude. Some tourist decide to wander off the camp to the dunes and can't find their way back. Drunk tourist might be only 5 minutes away from the camp, but the dunes all look very similar. The guides are always vigilant and they know where you are and will rescue you (after some time) of course. So unless you know how to guide yourself with the starts, you might have to spend some lonely hours rethinking your behavior and actions. We think that is a fair lesson.

Sunrise

You can't miss the sunrise in the desert. It's spectacular! If you only stay one night you will most likely head back to the hotel early in the morning. You will eat breakfast at the hotel and you can use the shower and pool for couple of hours. 

Saying goodbye to this view was hard, but we will be back for more!!

Meet the Ganoua tribe

On your way out from Merzouga we stopped by Khamlia village. Khamilia village is inhabited by the Ganoua or Gnawa people, who originally were slaves from Africa.  Nowdays, the Gnawa people are shepherds and dromedary/camel herders and their music is world famous. At the village we experienced the traditional music and dance of the Ganoua tribe performed by a group called "Groupe des Bamabras" . They were truly amazing and welcoming. If you want to learn more about their history check out www.khamlia.com

 

 

 
 

Experience Morocco: Chefchaouen & Fez

Chefchaouen, The Blue City

You don't need a lot of reasons to visit Chefchaouen, the picturesque blue city in the Rif mountains of Northern Morocco. If your favorite color is blue and you love cats, these reasons are good enough.

The Tipsy Gypsies had big plans for Chefchaouen. There are plenty of hikes and sightseeing here, but sometimes life gives you the worst food poisoning and your plans, well, need to slightly adjust. We tried our best to see the most we could and not to vomit in public. So even though we were sick while we stayed in Chefchaouen for 3 days, we truly can tell you that this place is magical and it has a lot to offer. Hopefully the pictures will show the beauty of this city and you will want to visit. 

Cats play an important role in making this blue city even more cute. Cats always seem to live by their own rules no matter where and in Chef they rule the streets. This city probably has the most dense population of cats that we have seen so far in Morocco.

It seems that these furry pets are treated very well here.

It's dinner time. Locals love to feeds the cats. You will see as many as 10 or more cats lined up perfectly in the evenings in font of houses for food. 

Why is the city blue?

We did research and asked around, but nobody actually knows the answer. There are few rumors that might satisfy your curiosity.

1st rumor is that apparently the blue color is supposed to repel mosquitos because blue walls are reminiscent of fresh moving water. 

2nd rumor has it that the blue paint was introduced by the Jewish community that lived here during the 1930s to symbolize the sky and heaven. 

We are guessing none of these are true and it has to do something with the cats.

Food & Accommodations

Well, all we can say is that the coffee was safe. All jokes aside, the cuisine here is typical to Morocco fused with Spanish/European food. There is even an Italian restaurant that has decent pasta and pizza.

We stayed in a beautiful hotel Ras El Maa owned by a lovely couple that took care of us while we were sick. We couldn't recommend this place more.


Fez

For some reason we couldn't help ourselves and we kept comparing Fez to Marrakesh while we stayed there. In many ways these two cities are so similar that it is hard to tell the difference. Sometimes you visit a place you're just crazy about and you totally connect. Fez felt like a redundancy of Marrakesh, but without the flair of Marrakesh.

 What can you expect when you visit Fez? There is more of the same shopping with rugs, leather goods and spices. Tagine is the typical dish on every menu and you will see a similar city layout and architecture minus the big square. We came up with few things that we found different from Marrakesh.

3 Great unique things about Fez :

1. The Tanneries in Fez are worth visiting. The men who work here have to deal with incredibly harsh conditions. The constant heat of the African sun combined with the repugnant smell of pigeon poop used in the process of making leather, is what they have to deal with everyday. Pigeon poop is used to strip the hide of the hair, which leaves the leather "bleached" and soft.

The Tipsy Gypsies Tip: When you visit the tanneries remember to bring a fresh bundle of mint to help you deal with the smell.

2. Garbanzo bean sandwich was our favorite street food in Fez. Spicy garbanzo beans with fresh lime, drenched in olive oil on a crunchy french roll. It is a must try!

3. Shopping seems a bit less intense than in Marrakesh. The vendors are still trying to make money but they seem as obtrusive about it. 

Experience Morocco: Marrakesh

Marrakesh has been called the Jewel of the South, Paris of Africa or simply the Red City. Marrakesh is unquestionably the most exciting city in Morocco that you should visit. Here are some Tips from The Tipsy Gypsies that hopefully will inspire you to go!


Jemaa el Fnaa aka The Big Square

Jemaa el Fnaa, is a busy and chaotic city center square, which is often referred to as "The Big Square". It is the most recognized landmark in Marrakesh. Jemaa el Fnaa is where it all begins and ends. Moroccan men standing on the street will constantly try to "guide" you to his shop. If you come here in the evening, you will see many exotic things for tourists like snake charmers, monkeys dressed in doll clothes, henna artists and food vendors but what you can not see in the pictures is the music of the African drums, pipes and the smell of the energy and intensity that this place has. Also from here you can enter the maze of souks. 

The Tipsy Gypsies TipJemaa el Fnaa is also a tourist trap, so watch out for people placing monkeys or snakes on your shoulder for a picture. You will need to pay for it. If you actually want a picture like that make sure you clearly ask for the price first. We witnessed one of the snake charmers telling our friend it was 40 dirham for a picture and then he demanded 400. She ended up paying 100, which was still a rip of.

The Tipsy Gypsies Tip:  If you find yourself lost in the small streets of the medina, ask any shop owner for directions but never ask the guys on the street. These guys are fake "guides" and all they do is try to confuse you. Many of them work in groups and if you get far from a familiar area you will have no choice but to pay them a hefty fee to walk you out to a familiar area. You might get scammed and pay some money to find your way out but in general the city is safe. 

Souks

Laa Shukran , which translates into "No, thank you", is the most common phrase uttered by tourists in the souks.  In Marrakesh "No" means "Maybe". It can be a little intense at first walking through the souks and being bombarded with the vendors trying to sell you whatever is in their store. We learned to say " Maybe...later", which for some reason worked much better to stop the aggressive salesman from approaching us.

Another thing you need to learn is to bargain in the souks and in Morocco in general. Don't feel uncomfortable because it is apart of the culture here. Otherwise you might as well say, "take all my money!". Bargaining is like playing a game and you need to be patient. It might take some time, so don't shop right before a dinner reservation. Marrakesh is the best place to shop for handmade everything: textiles, fashion, house decorations, art etc. and it is totally worth buying some beautiful and unique crafts from here.

The Tipsy Gypsies Tip: We traveled to Fez, Chefchaouen, Tangier and hands down Marrakesh has the best tourist shopping in Morocco. We also found the prices in Marrakesh to be better compared to the other cities.

 The souks are divided into sections based on the type of craftsmanship. Below are some examples:

Rugs & Textiles

Moroccan rugs are very famous for a good reason. They are handmade, beautifully designed and are great quality. There are a few kinds of rugs you can buy here: sheep wool (the most common), camel wool (expensive) and silk rugs (also pricey). Each rug is unique because the pattern slightly differs depending on the person who made it. Many of these traditional rugs are made by organizations that hire women who are widowed or divorced and otherwise would not have the opportunity to work. But the sad truth is there are also many who claim to sell products made in a co-op but are just trying to overcharge sympathetic tourists so be wary. The Tipsy Gypsies visited one of these co-ops and we learned that rug making is a very hard work. Not only is it strenuous on the back, but it also requires intensive eye focus which is very tiring. For that reason one person will spend only few hours a day making a rug. 

Below are examples of the Moroccan wedding blankets. Traditionally women receive and wear these on their wedding day, but they also look fabulous as a wall decoration or bed spread. 

The spice market

If you have a rash, can't sleep, you're missing an arm or your wife/husband is cheating on you, the spice market is the place where you can find a cure. We hope you don't suffer from all the above because it can get expensive. The spice market is full of spices obviously aromatics and "magic" herbs, cosmetics and tea. You can also buy the famous aragon oil here (be careful because the cheap ones are diluted). In general whether you believe in the super powers of herbs or not, it's fun to try them out. The vendors are great at explaining what they are used for. 

Blacksmith: lanterns, lamps, trinkets, teapot etc

The Tipsy Gypsies TipIf you wan to buy a metal teapot for use make sure you select the "heavy weight" one. The light weight teapots are used for decorations. A good quality teapot of smaller size, should be around 150 dirham.

Leather: shoes, bags, puffs and anything leather.

Leather shoes are particularly famous in Morocco. You can get a custom pair of slippers made for about $10-20. We asked for vegan, faux leather shoes, and they actually wanted to sell to us fox shoes(jk).

It is so fascinating to see the whole process of manufacturing in Morocco. For example the leather comes from animals that are butchered, the meat is used for cooking and after that the leather is prepared and auctioned in the morning time and sold to a leather vendor who sells it to the different leather goods makers, like a shoemaker.  The finished product is then sold to the stores. It's a lot of middle-men, but that way everyone makes a bit of money and has a job. Btw nothing goes to waste in Morocco. Even the scraps from leather instead of being trashed are used to make cool bracelets, key chains and other small decorations.

Hammam

Forget the Swedish massage. When you come to Morocco you must try hammam. Hamman is a bath house with steam rooms where you can get a full body scrub. For Moroccan people hamman is a part huge part of their culture and entire families go to hammams a few times a week. 

You can choose to go to a spa type hamman where you will pay anywhere from 250 dirham and up, or you can go to a public hamman. If you choose to visit the public hamman check the hours first. Men and Women have designated hours when they can enter. There is no nudity allowed, so bring your bathing suit. You can bring your own toiletries or you can purchase them at the hamman. You can also hire a professional for a full body scrub. You skin will feel clean, soft and a bit sore.

This is actually what goes behind the scene of hamman. This guy made sure there is enough steam coming into the hamman. He was burning saw dust, old furniture among other things that people brought in. Again, Nothing goes to waste in Morocco. 

The man working at the hamman was part of the Gnawa tribe and was also a musician. He entertained us with a beautiful song, which was an old tale about a daughter who was kidnapped for a marriage. Her dad went looking for her and singing the song. The man in the picture is wearing the traditionally decorated hat with a hassle on top.  He was making a hypnotizing, circular movement with his head, which the dad in the song did to attract strangers to hear his tragic story about his daughter. 

Baker man is baking bread

Every morning the streets of Marrakesh come to life with people carrying trays of freshly kneaded dough ready to be baked at a local bakery. Women knead the dough at home but the baking process is done in a large communal oven. Morocco has many varieties of bread: from round pita'ish type (Khobz), to spongy (Beghrir) popular with breakfast and pancake fluffy (Msemen or Meloui) often stuffed with onions and spices. They are all delicious.

Food

Don't be afraid to eat street food while in Morocco. Sure, be careful where you eat but you must try the fresh olives from the market, the Moroccan msemen pancakes stuffed with onions, prickling pears, or freshly squeezed orange juice and of course nuts and dried fruits.

Water in general should be fine too, but if you want to be 100% sure, drink bottled water. Tap water is fine for brushing teeth.

It's DinnerTime

The name of the game is Tagine. This is the most common dish in Morocco. Tagines are great for both for vegetarians and meat lovers. Moroccans eat a lot of Tagines and so will you. You might get a bit sick of it by the end of your trip, but as soon as you leave you will miss these hot, flavorful dishes. 

The Tipsy Gypsies Tips: a lot of tourists buy the Tagine dishes to bring them home. If you decide to buy one and you intend to cook in it, you must first:

Soak it in cold water for few hours (or overnight), dry it and then oil the Tagine with olive oil  (if it's unglazed) and put it in a cold oven at 300 F for 2 hours. Wait till it cools and rub the olive oil all over it again.

This process will "cure" the Tagine, otherwise it will crack and break while you bake in it. 

Stay in a Riad

Riads are old traditional Moroccan houses with an interior courtyard or a garden. They are very fun to stay in and learn more about the culture and the customs of the locals. Most of the Riads are also located near the city center, which is a plus. The only negative is that they might be a bit hard to find sometimes, due to the crazy city planning, so make sure you communicate with the owners and get clear directions. Most of the riad host will be also happy to come and greet you at the main street.

The Tipsy Gypsies Tip: We found a great riad/hotel (pictures below) in Marrakesh where we stayed during our second part of the trip, that we absolutely loved.

Riad Les Jardin des Lilas is beautifully designed, professionally staffed, the food is fantastic and they have a great small pool in the courtyard that is always empty. The best part about staying here is that they own a few other bigger riads nearby with bigger pools and you have a full access to use them too. We highly recommend this place!

If you are staying at a riad or a hotel your breakfast will most likely consist of khabz, variety or jams, butter, juice, coffee or tea. Simple but delicious!

Moroccan Tea

Since Morocco is predominantly Muslim and Muslims don't typically drink alcohol, they came up with a very tasty drink: mint tea. Moroccans often call the tea "Moroccan Whiskey". Moroccan tea is made with fresh mint leaves and a few scoops of sugar (also good without). It has no caffeine and Moroccans drink this refreshing, aromatic tea all day long. Drinking mint tea in Morocco is almost like a second religion. Everybody will want to welcome you to their home with mint tea. Even when you go shopping the merchants will offer you a cup of tea. 

The tea is served in beautiful metal tea pots which is poured into an ornate glass. 

There is only so much mint tea that you can drink, so if you had enough and you need something stronger read about the secret alcohol that Moroccans drink here.

The Tipsy Gypsies Tip:  We enjoyed our Moroccan tea in a beautiful setting of Dar Cherifa (pic below). This place is gorgeous!

Garden Majorelle

This botanical garden was designed by a French painter Jacques Majorelle, and it is also known as the secret hideout for Yves Saint Laurent and his lover. Yves Saint Laurent purchased the estate in the 80's and decided to restore it and save it from plans of turning it into a hotel. 

Rooftops

Rooftops are great in Morocco for eating breakfast (if it's not too hot), sunsets and... watching what the neighbors are up to while hanging their laundry. 

Sunset and drinks

For incredible sunset views and the best happy hour in Marrakesh visit Le Salama. It is the only place in Marrakesch near the old medina where we found a Happy Hour. Food at Le Salama is delicious and the staff is super friendly. Ask for Khalid, the manager, he is the best thing that will happen to you in Marrakesch. Make sure you say "cheers" to him from The Tipsy Gypsies.

Moroccan Stories

STORY 01

While walking in Fez, i had a little boy, he was no older that 5 years old runnign behing me demanding i gave him and his friend a bag of figs I just both. He sure was adorale and he was calling me "hermosa" all the time. I have gave him some furuit to get rid of him, but sure that didnt work. He kept following us yelling "hermosa, hermosa" and after i turned around angryily said "enough, no more" he slapped me on my butt. Yep, a 5 yer old slapped my butt.

 

STORY 02

This also happened in Fez. We asked our friendly riad host manager (man), if we could do some laundry. He said that the house keepers would have not problem doing our laundry. Ok, great!! They next day, after having nothing to wear, we went to ask for our clothes. The same friendly manager didnt know where it was exaclty but pointed out to the room, where we all went in. There were few piles of clothes laying in different corener of the room. Before I spothes sometime that looked like it coould be my pair of jeand Mohamend was there before me. He proceeded to pick up every single pieces of my claundry inlduing my inimated. Eveyrthing he picked up a pair of color thing he lifted it up, strething it and asked politely with an accent and a big grim " Is this your", and evrything time staring blankly i said "yes". I thik afte rthat excericse he knew my "size" and underwear better than I did.

 

STORY 03

 I mentined that women are wonderufl in morocco and so are the men. 

We have met a wonderful man, name Khalid in Morocco. Khalid before out best friend in Morocco simply bcause he is a genorous kind mand. My husnad I went there one day durning lunch. I had a bad ear infection from a recent pieercing. Khalid came to our table,doing his job as a manager, aksing about our meal. We said everything was great ( food is amazing at LA Salama) but he turned at me at he could tell something was wrong. I expleaing my ear was hurting. Khalid told us tha he would take us to the pharmacy to help me get some medince, after our meal. Of course at first we thought " omg, he probably wnats some money" ( btw we didnt mind paing for help), but when we offered to tipp him he refused saying that he want to help and he hopes I get better. ok, i know it so simple, but when you have been huggiing and refusing any help on the steer from starnger becaue youahve been told all the want it moeny. this felt nice and humane. My ear healed fast and our firienship with Khalid grew even faster. He is a womenrul man and a friend!

STORY 04

I felt so stupid trippping falling down on a street in a busy medina, Marakkesh, but let me tell you i have ever had so many men rushed to my rescue. I am only 115 (well maybe 200 lb inlcuding my big ass backapc)  but 20 men lifted me off the ground. They brough water to wash my scratched legs, some suggested to pop y back ( hell no!!) and some wated to take me to a woan massage placae. After decling all the wise the offers many times, and paying the firendly old man for his generosuiy in a shot of Poish vodka that he spoted in the grocery bag that broke while i smahed on the ground, we were free to go. We also lreaned that that that yes, muslims, do drink and we leared what they drink ( stay tuned for out drink blog on Morocco).

STORY 05

this one is a bit hard to tell. I wasnt sure how to wirte this or if i should wite this at all. It is almost a bit painful to wirte this one. We hired a drived in Morocco, who was a friend of a friend. We had a wonderufl time till the first small incident. I take partical blame for it. I jokingly said to our guide after he asked us if we had I good time that I hated him. I am a very sarcatic person and sometimes I forget that saysting thing like that can get lost in a translation. I honeslty didnt even remember when I said that I accidentally insulted him. After hour of explanations what sargasm mean, tear of frustration we got over it and we were best friends again. Our last night, we spend at a camping side. It was a hot day, we decided to eat some food, drink cold beers and hang around the camp site. It got late my husband dozed off next to me in a communical lounge with beds. Some other local ( guide, i am not clear) came to hang out with us. Since beer is in high demand in Morocco, I am sure that was one of the reason he wanted to "talk" to us. He asked for some of my beer. Sure, pal you can have as much as you want I replied. Those who know me, I would share my last beer with you. That is the kind of a gal I am. He was enjoying the beer  holding it for a while under a table. He said i could have it back, which at that point, I didnt feel like taking back. I get paranoid and I thought that maybe he could have "slipped" something into my drink because it was weird that he kept it under the table. I didnt know him and for sanitary reason it didnt appeal to me to drink after him. You are proably thinking why is she saysing all of this. WHat this is all revelant. The two guides ( our) and the stranger started talking in a local langue, I got bored and fell asleep spooning my husband. At no point I let the tent. After sometie our guide woke us up and we all went to our camp site. Once we got tehre shit gets crazy. Our guide accoused me of apparently wanting to have sex with the stranger. When asked how is this possible he responed that he belived the other guy because:

A) the other guy speaks the local language ( berber) and he was very serious and convinving. So basicaly just because i speak english and I am a woman I can not be trusted. WTF!!

B) I offered the other guy my half of beer which apparenlty was interpreted and invitation to sex.WTF!!!

At that point I lost my cool. The whole camp was awake fro my screaming and yelling. The owner of the camp told us that this thign can happen somethimes and they escorted our guide out of the camp

This whole situaton was so crazy I still am trying to piece it together. 

The next morning was SO AKWARD and the guide and our taxi driver were commited to drives us many hour to a bus stop. The guide tried to apologize, said that is not what he meant, that his english is bad, and that he was angry with the other guy. I want to give him a benefit of doubt and belive that this was ost in translation, but the night before his english was perfect. 

Moral of the story. Dont assume you know somebody after few days. Becareful who you drink with becaue not everybody knows how to handle alcohol and some people have "dark" thoughts. I have never been more dissapointed in somebody that clearly had gained my rust. I hope there will be a day in the feature that I will forgive him. Inchallah!!

Get Tipsy on: Mahia

Morocco is a Muslim country and Muslim's don't drink. You probably have heard that line many times. Well, it ain't true. In fact, Morocco has really good alcohol, but you have to know where and what to look for. Moroccans are also discreet about their drinking. You don't ever see drunk and loud Moroccans laying on the street harassing people. If you saw anybody in Morocco like that, it was probably us.

The Tipsy Gypsies would like to introduce you to the strongest and the most potent drink in Morocco called Mahia. Mahia is basically a moonshine made from figs or dates. Since Mahia is a moonshine, the best version (or possibly the worst) is the home made stuff. Yeah!! 

The taste of Mahia can vary greatly. Since it's homemade, there are no "quality" checks. The Tipsy Gypsies drank some Mahia that was smooth and almost liquorish in taste but we also drank some nasty shit that tasted like rocket fuel. So it all depends on who you get it from. The only guarantee is that you will get very drunk and hopefully you wont die.

Where to find Mahia?

The most common scam in Morocco is when people on the street pretend to help you find whatever you are looking for. In Marrakesh these guys are yelling to the tourist : "Hey, the Big Square is this way". They are referring to Jemaa el Fna, which is the biggest and most touristy square in Marrakesh, surrounded by the souks. Btw, these guys are always lying and trying to confuse you and of course get money. Don't ever ask these people for help. 

We wish there was a legit service that would point out where to find Mahia. We would pay for that service because finding Mahia is like looking for Waldo. But don't get discouraged!! You know that you want to get shit faced, and you just have to work for it. Plus, finding Mahia can be a fun and a crazy adventure (story coming soon in our blog ).

The tips below on how to find Mahia, are completely free of charge. We know how it is to be a desperate drunk in Morocco:

1. If you are visiting big cities like Marrakesh or Fez, you will most likely be staying in a riad. A riad is basically a small hotel or B&B. They are very cool, and you should not miss out on this experience. Anyway, we recommend that you become friendly with your riad manager/host or the hotel concierge. After a day or two of playing buddies it should be safe to ask them if they can help you to get some Mahia. In our experience, the host will be more than happy to make the proper arrangements and before you know it, there will be somebody knocking on the door with with a bottle of home brewed Mahia. The first and the best we found was from basically a Marakkaesh drug dealer. Since Mahia is a street or homemade alcohol, which always involves some risk, you want to make sure the source you are getting it from is good. We felt confident that the contact from our riad was solid.

2. Another option is to buy Mahia from the store. We know you guys are probably thinking that we are idiots for buying alcohol from street dealers. Yes we are, but the reality is that finding a liquor store in the city is harder that finding Mahia. Plus, the store brand that we got was very sweet and wasn't the best Mahia we've had. Look for the big supermarket "Carefur". They sell every liquor that you can imagine. 

3. Cost. 

As always, in Morocco you gotta haggle for everything. We got our first 1/2 of a liter for 70 dirham (about $7-8). The guys wanted to sell it first for 200 dirham.

In the mountains, the price was 130 dirham ($13) for 1.5 liter after lots of negotiating. So that was even a better price but tasted terrible! Regardless, it got the job done and many parties were had.

 

 

Simply Sintra

What if we told you that there is a magical place with lavish green hills covered in flowers and dotted with countless old palaces and castles? This place really exist in Portugal and it is called Sintra. This is not a fairy tale and you should check it out yourself. So keep saving your vacation days and for now you can see beautiful Sintra here!

Sintra is a small touristy town near Lisbon. Going to Sintra from Lisbon by train only takes 50 min and it is an easy day trip.  There is a lot to see in Sintra, so you have to decide how packed  you want your day/days to be. The Tipsy Gypsies visited Sintra two days in a row and this is what we saw:

 

The Moorish Castle

This medieval castle constructed by the Moors dates back to the 8th and 9th Century. The castle is situated on top of a hill and it served as a defensive fort for the surrounding agricultural population. It is mostly ruins nowadays, but you can imagine what it was like during the days of old. The castle has amazing walls that look like tiny replicas of the "Great Wall of China".

Pena Palace

Pena Palace built in the Middle ages was originally a quiet monastery occupied by a few monks. The monastery was destroyed in the 18th century, first by lightning and then by an earthquake before crumbling into ruins. It was King Ferdinand II, who finally decided to purchase the monastery and turned it into what it is today, a magnificent palace. 

The interior of the Pena Palace is extremely well preserved and you should definitely see it. Each room has the beautifully intricate ceilings and arches. 

...and below are some details of the furnishings. 

Once you are done with Pena Palace you should walk around the nearby park. One of our favorites was the mini "castle" floating on a lake full of fish and ducks. 

Quinta de la Regaleira

This is a very romantic site with a majestic palace, impressive gardens where you can find hidden grottoes, wells and benches to rest. The whole estate is full of symbols related to alchemy, Masonry and Knights Templar. 

The chapel is another beautiful architectural statement worth visiting in the park. The interior is very well preserved with frescos and paintings that adorn the walls. The stained glass windows are best to see when the sun is setting and the colorful lights change the mood of the interior. Even though this is a Roman Catholic chapel this place is full of non religious symbols like pentagrams and "the all seeing eye". These symbols mean that people can be spiritual and enlightened at the same time.

The best part of the Quinta da Regaleira is you can spend hours walking around the huge property, learning about the symbols and finding hidden tunnels. You really feel like a happy child running around playing. 

One of the most popular and fascinating places to visit in the park is the Initiation Well. This well is 27 meters deep and it was build in the form of a spiral staircase with small landings. The number of steps is connected to Tarot mysticism.  Like everything else in the park this well for designed for ceremonies like Tarot and never served as a water well. 

There is another smaller well on the Quinta de la Regaleira estate which is worth visiting. This the "Unfinished Well". 

The Tipsy Gypsies loved Sintra and we hope we convinced to you visit this magical place. Let us know if you have any questions!

MOROCCO

From the souks and craftsmen of Marrakesh and Fes to the dunes of Merzouga and continuing on high into the Atlas mountains, see Morocco like you've never seen it before.

'MOROCCO' takes you on a journey beyond the obvious and into the heart and soul of this beautiful country. The film was shot over the course of a month.

10 THINGS TO LOVE ABOUT LISBON

Lisbon is simply sensational. Whether you are a foodie, music and art lover, or someone who just likes to wander, this city has something for everybody.  Here are 10 things The Tipsy Gypsies loved most about Lisbon.

1. The Streets of Lisbon

Colorful alley ways with small stoops and painted doors. When you walk through the small windy streets you will be constantly amazed by what's around the corner.

2. The Tiles

Portugal is known for its production of the most amazing ceramics in the world. Many old exterior buildings are covered with these beautiful and colorful tiles. Tile making is still considered a very prestigious job and the artists spends decades perfecting their craft.

While walking through the city we stumbled into a small tile studio.  The artist/owner welcomed us in to watch her process.

Tile Shop and Studio: Cristina Pina

https://www.facebook.com/ceramicacristinapina?__mref=message

 

3. Transportation

When you visit Lisbon make sure you ride the famous graffiti covered tram Elevador da Glória (picture below) or the historic Tram 28.

4. Pastel De Nata

This egg tart pastry is the most popular dessert in Portugal. They are perfectly golden-yellow in color, with a crunchy outside and soft buttery center. If you can, try to get a fresh warm Pastel de Nate straight form the oven. Enjoy it with a cup of tea or coffee. 

5. Sidewalk cafes

Summers in Lisbon are beautiful. The trees are green and the flowers are blooming. The city is buzzing with tourists from all over the world. It seems like every street and ally is decorated with colorful garlands or some sort of artwork. Endless cafes and restaurants fill the city with menus and smells that you can't resist. Sitting in a charming side walk cafe while sipping on chilled sangria is a nice way to take a short break from exploring. 

6. Time Out Market

This is probably the best spot in Lisbon to meet friends for lunch and drinks. The Time Out market brings the best chefs from the city together to deliver gourmet food without the stiff attitude of high-end restaurants. This place has communal tables and a fun atmosphere. Even the most picky eaters can find something delicious to eat here.

7. Bifana Sandwich

One of the best and cheapest things to eat in Lisbon. Bifana is a simple pork sandwich served with mustard and chili oil. At a cost of about $1.50 you should have enough change left over to wash it down with an ice cold beer. And you know it's damn good if Anthony Bourdain says he can't get enough of them.

Where to eat it: O Trevo restuarant

Address: Praca Luis de Camoes 48, Lisbon

8. Fado Music

Fado is more than just music for the Portuguese people. It's been referred to as the Portuguese blues. It's tragic, it's emotional and even if you don't understand the words you will feel it. The best place to eat some hot, flaming sausage and listen to live fado singers is A Tasca de Chico. Make sure to make a reservation. This place gets crazy crowded. 

Where: A Tasca do Chico                                                                                                        Address: R. do Diario de Noticias 39, 1200-333 Lisbon, Portugal

9. Ginjinha

A cheery liquor served in a regular or chocolate shot glass. Need we say anymore? If so, click here

10. People

Portuguese people are the most friendly and open folks you will ever meet when traveling. The Tipsy Gypsies believe this country is beautiful not only because of the scenery but the people's hospitality. Btw, this man's real name was Casanova and he lived up to it too!!!

 
10 THINGS TO LOVE ABOUTLISBON.png
 

GURDWARA: THE SIKH TEMPLE

We are nothing short of amazed by the Sikh people. What they have created is not just a place for themselves, but a sanctuary for all faiths (or non faiths) as long as you come in peace.

Aside from beautiful prayer rooms, where you can pray to whichever god you choose, every Gurdwara has a langer hall where anyone can come almost any time of the day, and eat fresh, healthy vegetarian food.

In the massive kitchens you will find volunteers of almost every faith churning giant pots of daal or kneading dough for freshly baked roti.

When you sit in one of their giant food halls, you will be served with a smile and provided as many portions as you’d like. But it doesn’t stop there.

Many Gurdwara’s also offer other services like nurseries, and classrooms at no cost.

The Sikh’s have a complicated history steeped in tradition which we won’t elaborate on here, but we highly recommend you read about them further as they are a fascinating and wonderful people.

Get Tipsy on: Ginginha

Like Port wine is famous in Porto, Lisbon has it's own alcohol which it is famous for. It's Ginginha (Ginjinha). A sweet cherry liquor. The Tipsy Gypsies have a lot of respect for traditions, especially the drinking ones, and we were told that it would be rude not to try the Ginginha, while in Portugal.  

Ginginha is hard to pronounce, but luckily for you Lisbon has many little bars, where all they serve is Ginja. Simply walk in and say how many you want.

How to drink Ginja? You can choose to drink Ginja from a frozen chocolate shot or a regular glass. With a cherry, or without. It's up to you! 

The verdict? One of us liked it, the other didn't. It's VERYYY sweet. It tasted a bit like the cherry liquor my Tipsy Gypsy grandma used to hide in her pantry.

We suggest indulging in a glass after dinner. The sweet little shot makes for a nice dessert and night cap. Whether you're a fan of sweet drinks or not, you must try it to insure a true Lisbon experience!

 
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WHAT TO WEAR IN MOROCCO

Is the headscarf really necessary?

Is the headscarf really necessary?

“It looks you peed your pants”, said my husband Nate to me when we arrived at the gates of Majorelle Garden - Yves Saint-Laurent’s sanctuary in the hustling city of Marrakesh, Morocco. The fashion designer’s house in the Red City, which I dreamed to visit since I was a child, was within a few steps from where I was standing. The property was transformed into a museum, filled with beautiful objects from Islamic culture, surrounded by incredible electric-blue architecture and the tranquility of gardens. I couldn’t wait to get beyond the walls and inside the garden to find peace and finally some shade. As I stood in the sizzling sun facing the gated entrance sweat was pouring down my body. Getting to the museum on a hot day through the dusty streets of Marrakesh was anything but tranquil. It was at this moment I realized I made a big packing mistake…

 

What you need to know before you visit Morocco

 

It started way before I arrived in this foreign country, in our home in Los Angeles, with a simple question: “What to wear in Morocco?”

I did what other millennials do and I asked Google for help. Quickly my search was filled with wisdom from bloggers and YouTubers wearing boho clothes.

 

Even though there is no official dress code for tourists traveling to Morocco, females especially, face a daunting task when packing. It seems that there is a collective voice on the internet of what is appropriate to wear in Morocco. And what is appropriate according to the Internet? Apparently, every blog is sponsored by a boho store because that’s what they recommend. After having been to Morocco I now know this isn’t the case.

 

So what can you wear in Morocco, and do you have to fully cover up? Men and women can find answers to these questions in this honest guide about what to wear in Morocco.

 

 

 What do the locals wear in Morocco?

Moroccan culture and fashion

 

Before we jump into explaining what to pack in your suitcase, you should know a little more about this country and its culture before you visit.

 

Morocco is a Muslim country and in many ways depicted as conservative. If you have never been to a Muslim country before you probably imagine women covered up from head to toe, wearing a burqa (a long garment covering the whole body and face). Moroccan women wear clothes that to many western women might be considered conservative, like a niqab (a type of face and head covering but it leaves eyes visible), but very few women in Morocco wear a burqa, which is common in more conservative countries like Pakistan or Afghanistan.  In fact in, 2017 the Moroccan government banned the import, production and sale of burqas. Although this measure was received with mixed reactions towards the ban, and many protested saying that nobody should dictate what women should wear. I am not going to debate this topic since I am not an expert on Muslim culture, and I feel it would be very disrespectful to argue either side.

 

The bottom line is women in Morocco are not forced to fully cover up. Women also aren’t required to cover their heads, but the ones that do make it a fashion statement. Wearing a Hijab (head covering) is a way of showing they are proud of their culture.

 

For centuries Europeans have been traveling to Morocco for inspiration in fashion. The famous fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent chose to spend his life there. His influence can be seen on the streets of Morocco.

 

The street-fashion in Morocco is diverse and exciting. Many Moroccans wear western clothes, but traditional Moroccan attire is especially popular amongst the older folks. The young generation, with access to the Internet, is making bold choices of mixing tradition with influence from western cultures. Once neutral-toned traditional clothes are now available in a wide range of colors and patterns. Young people wear sneakers with traditional dresses like djellaba (a long dress).

 

In general, big cities like Marrakesh or Casablanca are more fashion forward. In the modern parts of these big cities near shopping malls, cafes and clubs, you will see young Moroccan women wearing western clothes. Around the medina quarter, and old parts of town young ladies wear more traditional clothes, to keep the neighbors from gossiping. Rural areas are a bit more conservative and traditional clothes are more predominant.

 

I encourage you to do some shopping while you visit. Moroccan clothes are not only beautiful but practical as well.  See some traditional Moroccan clothes below.

 

 

Morocco Weather

 

When you are planning your trip to Morocco make sure to plan according to the season. Morocco is located in the Northern part of Africa, and it’s hot most of the time but winters in the desert or high in the mountains can be very cold!

Spring & Autumn (November-April) are the most popular times to visit because the temperatures are cooler (chilly and rainy in the northern parts).


 Summers (May-September) are very hot, with an average temperature of 50 Celsius in Marrakesh and in the south of Morocco.


Winters (December-February) are very chilly at night, especially in northern Morocco.

  

 

What to wear in Morocco as a woman?

What to wear in Morocco

 

Do you remember in the beginning of this story I told you about the mistake I made? It was because I listened to and believed every blog I read to cover my body, otherwise I would offend people. I decided to pack some “conservative” options that I could fit into my 50L backpack. I wasn’t just going to Morocco so my backpack couldn’t be filled entirely with boho clothes.

 

So there I was, standing in front of the Majorelle Museum, in my conservative blue jeans and a shawl draped over my shoulders. The heat was unbearable and although I lived in California for many years, I was not ready for this type of heat. My body was overheating and sweating from places I never knew it could. My crotch was sweating and it left a stain on my jeans looking like I peed myself. As I stood there, in the 50 C dry desert heat, in my conservatively stained pants there came the Instagram queens in crop tops and tiny white summer dresses. I was shocked to see western women wearing clothes I was discouraged to bring to Morocco by the boho experts. The Instagrammers were there to do a photoshoot. I wanted to see YSL’s home. The museum was closed. We all left defeated, with no photos, and I left with a stain on my pants. I never wore those pants again when I was in Morocco. Don’t be like me and don’t bring jeans to Morocco in the summer.

What to wear in Morocco as a woman

 

Is Morocco safe?

 

I have to admit that reading quotes like “if you are a woman you should cover yourself up because you won’t be harassed by men” is infuriating. The problem with men harassing women in any culture is men, not women. I can’t stress this enough, women should not blame themselves for being harassed or assaulted because of their clothes. Ever!



There were some recent tragic stories from Morocco. One involved the rape of a young woman on the bus by a gang of teenagers. I couldn’t believe that some people were shaming the girl for wearing a tank top.



If a culture allows men to harass or assault women without any punishment, we should be focusing on that, rather than on the length of a shirt. These stories are of course extreme examples, and Morocco in general is a safe country.

 

Catcalling is pretty common in Morocco, and men are not shy to flirt with women, even with married women. I was traveling to Morocco with my husband and I was still catcalled all the time. This type of attention happens everywhere in the world, and Morocco is no different. Catcalling is annoying but not dangerous. From my experience women in the company of men, are less likely to be catcalled, but that should not stop you from traveling solo to Morocco. If a man ever crosses the line and touches you, don’t be afraid to raise your voice and shame him.

 

The truth is that you can pretty much wear the same clothes you would wear at home. It all comes down to you and your personality. I am not going to tell you that wearing a short summer dress is right for you, because you might feel uncomfortable. I was totally fine wearing dresses, and shorts on my trip, and I saw many other female tourists wearing similar clothes. Although, I would say that wearing very skimpy shorts that show your buttocks is probably pushing it. I can’t guarantee you won’t have attention from men, but I know for a fact that wearing a long dress won’t stop men from catcalling or staring at you. I’ve tested it!

 

 

Packing List for Women traveling to Morocco

 

After you’ve determined what type of clothes are right for you and the time of the year you are traveling, you need to decide what type of a trip you will be doing. Is it a visit to Marrakesh and other big cities, or perhaps a trip to the beach? These questions combined with the examples below should help you decide the perfect balance of clothes for every activity and weather.

1.     What to wear in big cities in Morocco?

 I was totally comfortable wearing dresses and shorts in the cities. I visited Morocco during the hot summer and wearing long pants was the worst idea. Loose clothing, either a short or long dress is the best to wear in the heat, but you absolutely don’t need to be fully covered up.

Don’t forget to bring your swimsuit with you even if you are only staying in the city. Many hotels in Morocco have indoor pools, where you can lounge or cool off during hot summers. Morocco is very sunny even in the winter so bring a pair of sunglasses.

 

2.     What to wear to the beach in Morocco?

 If you will be spending time on the beach in places like Essaouira, a popular beach town in Morocco, bring beach clothes: swimsuit, hat, shorts ect.

I travel with a sarong wrap pretty much everywhere I go. It’s perfect for a trip to the beach, and you can also use it to cover up or protect yourself from sun. 

  

3.     What to wear on a hiking trip to Morocco?

Depending on the level hiking you want to do, you will of course need appropriate shoes. Wearing running shoes on an easy trail is perfectly fine. Yoga pants are comfortable and practical to wear on hikes. If you are hiking in the summer remember to bring a scarf, or a hat for sun protection and plenty of water!

It gets cold in the mountains at night even during summer, so bring some warm layers either a sweater or a light jacket.

 

4.     What to wear in the winter in Morocco?

 You might need a pair of long pants like jeans if you are going to Morocco during the winter since it gets cold. Bring some layers and a jacket with you to wear at night.

 

5.     What to wear on a desert tour in Morocco?

 If you are joining a desert tour in Morocco, and you definitely should, bring comfortable clothes. You will be sitting on a dromedary (like a camel but with one hump) for hours and it can get a bit uncomfortable. Leggings or loose pants are the best. Bring a scarf with you to protect your head, face, and shoulders from sun and wind! Also sunglasses are a must! In the winter you might need extra layers at night!

If you are bringing any camera equipment make sure to secure it properly from sand. It can ruin your lenses and other gear in just a few minutes! If you are not using your camera put it away in a bag.

 

6.     What Shoes to wear in Morocco

Comfortable shoes are necessary in Morocco. If you are staying in cities you should bring a pair of comfortable walking shoes like sandals, or sneakers. High heals are very uncomfortable to wear on uneven streets. Flip-flops are great for pools, and you might need them if you are staying in a budget place where the cleanliness of the shower is questionable.

Packing List for Men traveling to Morocco

 

Men have more freedom when it comes to clothes in Morocco. It is less about what is appropriate, and more about the comfort. Although some say that shorts or undershirts are not ok in public, I have seen plenty of tourists wearing this exact outfit and nobody cared. The only time you will need to consider being more covered up is when going inside a mosque, and there are only a few you can actually visit as a non-Muslim in Morocco.

 

 

1. What to wear in cities in Morocco?

Many locals wear jeans even during summer time, but if you are not used to the heat you might find it extremely uncomfortable. Shorts and t-shirts are totally acceptable, but if you want to look more elegant you can bring a light fabric button up shirt. Linen clothes are a great choice for men to wear in big cities like Marrakesh. Linen clothing will keep you cool even in the extreme heat.

Don’t forget to bring swim trunks with you when traveling to the cities in Morocco. Many hotels have a pool that you can use.

If you have room in your suitcase bring something to cover your head to protect it from sun.

 

 

2.     What to wear to the beach in Morocco.

Many people don’t realize that there are very nice beach areas in Morocco. Essaouira is a trendy surfing destination for locals and tourists.

Bring a pair of swim trunks with you to Morocco, and don’t forget sunglasses and a hat!

 

3.     What to wear on a hiking trip to Morocco.

 If you are planning on doing any hikes in Morocco, bring appropriate clothes with you and make sure you plan accordingly to the weather. Winters are cold in the mountains and summers are extremely hot. If you are doing a day trek, you will be fine hiking in your running shoes, but if you plan to spend weeks in the mountains make sure you have comfortable shoes, and perhaps a tent to sleep in.

 

4.     What to wear in the winter in Morocco

Make sure you bring long pants and some layers with you, since winters in the northern parts of Morocco are cold. Many tourists like spending winter in the south of Morocco, where the temperatures are a bit warmer.

 

5.     What shoes to wear in Morocco?

Although many guides discourage you from wearing open toe shoes, sandals are the most practical to wear on city walks in the summer. It is true that the unpaved streets are dusty and you feet will get dirty, so just be ready to scrub them when you get to your hotel room. For that same reason many locals wear closed toe shoes, like the traditional babouche slippers. Nevertheless, it is better to wear sandals in the heat than having your feet sweat in sneakers. If you bring sneakers choose a dark color, otherwise one trip to the city and they will get filthy. Flip-flops are great too, especially around the pool area!

 

6.     What to wear on a desert tour in Morocco

Even if you are only spending one night on the desert you want to make sure you are comfortable. Bring a backpack where you can pack extra layers in case you get chilly at night. Loose fitting pants are the most comfortable while you sit on a dromedary for hours. A headscarf to protect you from the strong sun (plus sunscreen of course) and sunglasses are a must! You can wear flip-flops to protect your feet from hot sand, but they are uncomfortable to walk in the desert. Ankle-high shoes, like Convers, are better for walking and they will keep the sand from getting inside.

 

We hope this guide helped you decide what to pack for Morocco on your next trip.  Remember to wear whatever makes you comfortable. If you are a woman who is more modest, bring clothes that are less revealing. It doesn’t mean you need to be covered from head to toe. Instead of a short dress simply wear a maxi dress with a scarf over your shoulders. Some western women traveling to Morocco, in order to blend in with the local Moroccan women, wear a scarf on their head. You absolutely don’t need to do this, but it can be fun and fashionable.

 

Remember to save a bit of space in your suitcase to bring some souvenirs home with you. Morocco is known for high quality art and handcrafts.

 

Have a great time on your holidays in Morocco!

To all the ladies out there, don't be afraid to travel to Morocco. It's a wonderful place and you can safely wear your favorite shorts and dresses. If you're traveling alone, just use the same common sense you would in any other country. I hope this post helps you all!

Get Tipsy on: Coconut Beer

Forget the Mai Tai, and other cliché cocktails with umbrellas in the glass, and drink some coconut beers in Hawaii. Yes, you read it correctly, they make beer from coconuts in Hawaii. This is exactly why they call the Islands a paradise. 

The coconut Porter, made by the Maui Brewing company, is nothing like you have ever tasted before. 

The coconut Porter has a creamy consistency, with a hint of sweetness with toasted coconut. OMG, Yasss!! Sometimes dark beers can be heavy, but this one is surprisingly refreshing. It makes it a perfect beer for a summer day or night.

The Coconut Porter is one of the best beers that The Tipsy Gypsies have tried, and we drink a lot of beer, so trust us.

Get few chilled Coconut Porters and head to the beach to catch the perfect wave or watch the sunset!

If you happen to be going to Maui, Hawaii anytime soon the Maui brewing company offers tours so make sure to stop by

http://mauibrewingco.com/discover_beer/coconut-hiwa-porter/

Aloha!

MONKEY TEMPLE

Today we explored Swayambhunath Temple, also known as Monkey Temple in Kathmandu, Nepal. It was a magical experience. We met so many friendly people including a buddhist monk, as well as made many monkey friends. Although if you ever visit, be careful! They will grab your water bottle, your bag, your camera, ANYTHING they can in a second if you let your guard down. Sneaky little buggers :)

OFF THE BEATEN PATH IN PORTO

Portugal shares two things with Spain: one is a border, the second is wine. Other than that, these countries have more differences than you might think.

 

After spending a week in Barcelona, we flew into the small, charming, coastal city in Portugal, simply called Porto. Now you probably have heard the word "port" before. Port is also the name of a wine that comes from this region of Portugal, and like every good story, ours starts with wine.

 

Drinking

We are not wine experts, but we sure do like to drink, and when it comes to wine, Portugal has some of the best wines in the world.

Porto is famous for port wine (red or white, sweet dessert wine) which is delicious , but you should also try Vinho verde (fresh white wine, low in alcohol, which is a bummer but it's still delicious!). Porto blends of Vinho verde: rosé or red, are also very good! 

Plus, wine is almost as cheap as water here. You can get a very good bottle of wine at a store for about 3 euros. So drink wine all day long!

Nothing like a bottle of vinho tinto while waiting for your train :)

Nothing like a bottle of vinho tinto while waiting for your train :)


CITY: Porto

What to do, see, and eat 

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Porto is full of old historical buildings and museums, which are very easy to find on Trip Advisor or similar websites. We have some great off the beaten path tips to share with you but before we get to that, here are some of the more obvious activities that we actually loved:

The "hop-on, hop-off" tour bus is a really good deal. You can get a 2 day pass for 15 euros. The bus will take you to the most iconic places, and if you are planning on spending a day at the beach the bus stops there too. We found it to be more cost effective than buying public bus tickets to all these places. 

  • Ingreja do Carmo - an incredible Rococo style church built in the XVIII century. The entrance is free. 
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  • Igreja dos Clerigos church - free entrance to visit the church. For about 3 euros you can climb the tower Torre dos Clerigos to see the view of the city 
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  • Serralves museum - the entry is kind of expensive, about 10 euros/per person, but it is really worth visiting. It's an impressive museum with modern art, some provocative art installations and beautiful gardens surrounding the premises. If you can, plan to spend the whole day at the museum and the park. The park is huge, with many gardens and shaded areas to sit down and have lunch. It's a great spot for wine drinking and a picnic!

Our favorite part of the museum was the art installation made by kids on the second floor. The subject was "Body Images, and what role it plays in our society". It is absolutely brilliant and moving to see what these kid-artists came up with and hopefully we all learn from them that body is only what carries your soul.

The Serralves gardens

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  • Bairro Herculano

This is the more "off the beaten path" guide to Porto.

Walk to the little district of Porto, called Bairro Herculano. This is a non-touristy area with cute, little houses, that were built between 1880 and 1886, originally for the working class. These two-story dwellings, were designed with communal restrooms, showers and an outdoor laundry facility, where women used to wash clothes. At that time these houses were considered very luxurious compared to the rest of the working suburbs.

This is a great neighborhood with amazing photo opportunities. If you visit Bairro Herculano, just be mindful and respectful. People who live in this quiet neighborhood, are not used to seeing many tourists wandering through the streets.

 

When you are done in Barrio Herculano cross the Ponto Do Infante bridge to see the spectacular view of the city and walk over to the other side of Porto. You will find yourself walking on a small road Cabo Simao, along the Duro river. There is a really cool abandoned church and Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar, with more spectacular views of the city.

  • Afurada Village

Afurada is a small fishing village about 4 km (one way) from the D. Luís Bridge. It's a bit of a walk,  but this is where you can get the best fish in town and a big carafe of chilled vinho verde. The prices are much better than in the center of Porto. Along the way, you can see the locals literally fishing their dinner in the river. Afurada is very authentic and you won't find many tourists here. There is also another public laundry facility here, that is sill very much in use by the local gals.

If you don't feel like walking back to Porto, you can take bus #14 that will drop you off near the D. Luis Bridge.

TIP: You can also rent bikes near the Trindade Metro station if you'd like to cruise here by bike!

Food

 Francesinha is a dish made with bread, loaded with meats, covered with melted cheese and topped with spicy tomato sauce and served with french fries. OMG!!

What you don't want to miss in Porto is the famous "Francesinha" dish. You will see that every restaurant in Porto serves it. Francesinha is EVERYWHERE!! We thought we could get it in other parts of Portugal too. Well, it turns out that Francesinha originally comes from Porto and it is hard to find an authentic one in other cities. Apparently, the secret is in the sauce and even Portuguese will tell you that the best Francesinha is in Porto. So make sure to try one before leaving!!

Francesinha

Francesinha

 

Food in Afurada Village

We had a lovely lunch at Casa do F.C Port. Fried fish and a vegan lunch: potatoes drenched with olive oil and garlic plus fresh tomato salad. We drank vinho verde and cold beers. It was a perfection!

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lunch at Casa do FCPorto

lunch at Casa do FCPorto

Casa do F.C Porto, address: R. Antonio dos Santos 90, Sao Pedro da Afurada, Portugal


An evening in Miramar near Porto

OK, so this is technically a bit outside of Porto, but we highly recommend that you take the local train to Miramar, where you can watch the sunset on a beach. There is also a beautiful old chapel on the beach over there. The sunset was breath taking. Just don't forget to bring a bottle of wine!

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The Tipsy Gypsies would like to thank our Airbnb host Dorta Woicka who shared some of these of the beaten path places.

Looking for more inspiring ideas for Porto? Check out this article from our friends at The Crazy Tourist!